|1||NIKÉ||8a+/b||120m overhang, then connecting with Boreas||Karešák, Hrnec|
|2||Boreas||7c+||Technical traverse just above the huge cave of stalactites||Karešák, Hrnec|
The route is very difficult, AF (obl.7b +). NIKE was bolted over the period of three years. Due to the weather conditions and wall orientation it could have been bolte onyly during winter months. Six days in the overhang to find the optimum direction for the line was quiet a challenge.
Niké is the Goddess of Victory. These multi-pitch is 170 meters long with 8b/b+ (7b+ obligatory) difficulty. You will need great endurance, it is 160 meters of climbing, of which 120 meters is in the overhang of stalactites, drills and handrails.
For climbing you will need 18 quickdraws and 2x 50m rope.
- 1st pitch 25 m, 11 quickdraws for 7b;
- 2 d pitch 20 m, 11 quickdraws for 7b;
- 3rd pitch 15 m, 8 quickdraws for 8a+/b;
- 4th pitch 25 m, 11 quickdraws for 8a;
- 5 h pitch30 m, 18 quickdraws for 8b/b+;
- 6 h pitch20 m, 10 quickdraws for 7b;
- 7th pitch15 m, 7 quickdraws for 7a;
- 8 délka 40 m, 15 quickdraws for 7c+
Boreas is the God of the Wind. Route was named by local climber and bolter Riky Felderer. A great route through the pockets and tufases, which we bolted in December 2017. The routeis unique for its views and traverse above the huge cave. The stainless steel material is bolted close to each other and the stands are very comfortable. Enjoy a great climbing of 145m in 5 lengths.
For climbing you will need 15 quickdraws a 2x 50m rope.
- First pitch: 40m - 8 quickdraws - 5c
- Second pitch: 30m - 14 quickdraws - 7b+/c
- third pitch- 20m - 8 quickdraws - 7b+
- Forth pitch- 15m - 7 quickdraws - 7a
- Fifth pitch- 40m - 15 quickdraws - 7c+
Follow the winding road above small village Baunei. You get to the plateau, after which you drive about 2km to the first return. Here you turn right to the stony path, continue for about 3 km to the farm Ovile Us Piggius, here you by the wooden barrier you leave your car and to continue to descend down the path towards the sea.
The other option is to leave the car at Pedra Longa and from there to walk up the same path. This way it is longer. We recommend this nice walk when having a rest day or if you want to explore the area more. You will enjoy stunning views of the sea and rocks.
Starting from the parking lot under Punta Giradili:
The way leads directly through the farm, with magnificent views across the valley. From the parking lot you pass through the first wooden gate. Do not forget to close behind, so that the goats don´t escape :). Walk about 400 meters along the path until you reach the small gate again, then walk and walk down the narrow path into the valley. You will get to the hot plates, where there is a great new climbing area CENIGA GIRADILI, where we also bolted some nice routes. Continue along the path about 600 meters until you see a large cave open above you. Leave thei path and and look for the ferrata to get to the top floor. Go up the steep slope to the cave.
- GPS: 40.042780, 9.702820