Even the weather in summer you can not fully rely on int he mountains. This is what has happened to the last trip Karešák and Rámus in Switzerland. The plan was to bolt a new route in Dolomites, either Latemar or Tofan. However, the weather changed their. The weather forecast showed the blue sky only in the southwest of Switzerland. We made a decision to change a plan. Unexpected and totally crazy three days in Switzerland. A new route and experiences.
"We headed to Gastlosen near Jaun in Switzerland. I would compare this rock to our Czech Suché skály, only slightly higher - 200 to 300 meters. Beautiful. There are only 4 roads on the central 300m tower. So we took 100 rivets, ropes and Hilti drill to test it´s new battery a durability, and we hit a 3 km long onset.
The rock in untouched, so let′s do it. The way of bolting we do here is to use as little rivets as possible. Simply alpine style. At the lowest point we begin to drill a perpendicular, completely compact rock ending after 35m with a shelf. My style of bolting is with a drill and rivets hanged on myself. Which is faster, I drill in the climbing position, but the weight is big disadvantage. Rámus bolts lightly with a hook and taking the drill up everytime he needs it and than sanding it down. It´s not that heavy, but slower. We all have our own style.
Drilling this route was a challenge and it was not as easy as rocks in the Czech Republic or some in Sardinia. Lukáš drilled the second length. When returning to the fifth rivet he clicks the clinch, but it does not hold and cracks. Lukáš "flies" about 15m and ends about 10 m above me in the overhang. Nice flight…
I drill third part for 7b, trying the style of Lukáš. In the crux, 4m above the belay, I jump into the catch and can′t go back. I′m looking for a good place for my hook. Foot on backhand, hand in layback. Quickly looking for a place to hook. I can´t find it, so I risk it and try a sharp wave on the layback and a microwhole. I sit slowly, pick up the drill, drill a hole, hammer the rivet, sit down. The hook just ends the time it gave me for this time of drilling. Well, I have to go down. Lukáš continues and 3m above the belay goes to the unknown space. I yell at him, "Dude, there′s an undercling at your waist level." It saved him. Let′s go down. For today we are done.
The next day I start bolting. 3é m length for 7a. I climb with a drill hang on myself and drill quickly 6 rivets in 30m of the rock. The last length is drilled by Lukáš and we join the old route. This is the end and we are really done.
The last morning we feel really tired, but it is necessary to climb this new route as RP. We know it will be really hard. I´m climbing the first length, done just "so - so". Lukáš the same. I′ll give it a try, my legs will slip down twice, but I feel it might work. Lukáš falls in a crux. Another try I, fully concentrated, feet are holding, jump not to fall. Another length is on Lukáš. Falling, going down. I´m next. Fingers covered in blood and blisters, but sealed with tapes, I manage to climb all lengths of either RP or OS. We are fully destroeyd, but the goal is met. We are going home. It was a massacre. But amazing massacre.
We called this new route CZECH MONZUN: 7C +, 7A +, 7B, 7A, 7A. The rest is an old route of rivets and staples 1-2m apart.
The test of the new Hilti flashlight fell far beyond expectations. It survived the fall of 20 meters. We′re satisfied. "
Karešák & Rámus