This year in May we went to Sardinia again. It′s almost our second home, but we always look forward to delicious doppio, turquoise sea and super climbing. It has to be pointed out that this time it was not completely sunny. While last year it was a sauna time, this year the weather did not work much here. But for climbing, there are no bad conditions in Sardinia. Neither snow can change our opinion. Just a brilliant place, a brilliant island.
In May, amongst our more than 370 first ascents, we added a wonderful 2 more multipitches. Their uniqueness lies in perfect limestone, super availability and great views during the whole time of climbing. All-in-one experience.
In the Monsu Mulone area near our favorite Pedra Longa in the province of Ogliastra near the small and picturesque town of Baunei, we created two multipitches together with a local friend and bolter Riki Felderer. Detail are shown in the picture. From the parking lot at Pedra Longa, you can easily and quickly reach under the rock and enjoy the breathtaking views of the beautifully blue sea while climbing. Due to the position of the wall to the southeast, the sun is here a big part of the day until about 3 pm.
We bolted the Corvalis route (Kareška and Hrnec) for 6b +. In the middle, Riki Felderer and Jaro Ovčáček followed there with Freaky and Mysterious for 6c + to the next toppo. The routes are next to the older ones named Saratoga and Atlantide. After climbing and enjoying nature, you simply descend down. No long walks around to get down.
Secure about 6 to 8 hours to climb these multi-pitches. Ideally whole day. The minimum rope length is 2x50m and it takes at least 15 quickdraws. After a successful landing on the ground, we recommend stopping at nearby Pedra Longa restaurant for a tasty local beer Ichnusa to finish up a super day. If you hesitate whether to climb it or not locals are giving it 5 out of 5 stars.
It is not easy to pack a big team for a bolting trip to Sardinia with all the climbing equipment and our heavy “weapons”. Ensuring appropriate conditions for usually one to two weeks of hard work on the rocks, a long journey, a ferry, accommodation and other small things takes a lot of time before starting our arrival to Baunei. We love bolting in Sardinia. That is why we are pleased that we have been cooperating with someone who can help us organize such a challenging event and solve many details for us. Just one phone call is enough, and the Czech travel agency Sardegna Travel will solve and arrange any of our request immediately. And that′s not easy with us. We often change the number of crew members and travel dates.
The best way to experience all that Sardinia can offer to climbers is by car. From the Czech Republic, go to Livorno, Italy, then ferry to Olbia and then drive south. Housing is practical around Baunei, Arbatax, Tortoli and Santa Maria Navaresse, where there is also a campsite. You can also travel to Sardinia by air, so you do not need to pack a lot of climbing mattresses with you in most areas. The minimum equipment on most routes is a 70m or 2x50m rope and 15-20 quickdraws. In all towns you can eat comfortably and have delicious Italian coffee. Just watch for shorter opening times and holidays.