We′ve talked about it for over a year and last weekend, I finally returned here with Honza Hrnčíř (Hrnec). Because every time I saw any picture from Lofer, I just wanted to be there. Top limestone, super views, mountains. Simply perfection. Now we made it there, and twice in a row. This weekend we returned here with Vojta Semík and a drilling equipment. Last weekend we looked for a beautiful route next to my previous, and one of the currently most popular, called BREXIT for 7a +. In the book on top, we found the comment "geniale" under this road. Satisfied.
So the plan for this weekend was clear. New multi-pitch near Brexit. One day trip to limestone heaven. It´s possible when you leave Prague at 3 am, you often go to the rocks in the parking lot in Lofer as a first climber.
2.30 wake-up call, Hrnec reports on arrival that he hasn´t slept at all. Packing and looking for a ratchet. Vojta Semík joined us as photographer this time. Early in the morning we are on spot and heading to the rocks at 7.30 am from the parking lot with about 50 rivets and five chains.
It′s about an hour to the top, it always has to be reached by abseiling salty. I throw down the static rope and hope the direction is right, I always have plan B. That′s for sure. Who knows me, he knows that I can′t go to the rocks without plan B.
I descend 60 m and over the hangover to the right. But when I traverse, I get into a beautiful plate. I wouldn′t figure out the route from the bottom ... I know that the route should be done from bottom, but here I made almost all the routes from the top and nobody has a problem. On the contrary, they really appreciate the quality we bolt the routes with. They are always super secure and safe, using chains with carabiners on stands and on the bottom there is often a large stone to change the shoes.
After about 8 hours of drilling we are finally down and missing 1 rivet! The solution is not complicated. On the first stand on the big shelf, I made 2 holes and put only one carabiner rivet. You can climb there solo.
The end of October is surprisingly hot here. We have one water for two people, we left the food on top. After many hours and heat, fatigue and thirst are hitting us. Bigger part the route is slightly laid covered with dust and clay, cannot be for 100% swept, so I blow and pray not to fall. I´m climnig the route rather quickly. Hrnec after all day of bolting in climing shoes can barely stand, using quickdraws to climb up. We need to move faster as the evening is coming. In the meantime, Vojta fell asleep on the edge of the stand, but he enjoyes at least the last length. 5:30 pm we are all on top. Let′s put a new route into the book and quickly go to the car.
As a cherry on top of today’s beautiful day, we are meeting other climbers on a parking lot. They are looking at us like we are fools when they find out that we′ve come here to bolt for only one day. They will try our new route the next day. We are excited and asking for photos. The next day they send us messages saying that the route is divine and the quality resembles Verdonesque style. We are honored and we know that this route will be one of the TOP ones.