Finishing of Niké on Punta Giradili
Pohled na dominantní 100 metrový převis PuntaGiradili.
Turquoise sea, white rocks, nice people, doppio and divine Italian cuisine may sound a bit like a cliché, but it is a true paradise that we like to return to several times a year. During our last trip of 2019 we were facing the challenge of finishing route we named NIKE - the goddess of victory. It is the hardest multi-pitch we have ever bolted. It is a very endurance route of 8 lengths in a total length of 170 m, where more than 120 meters are mainly climbing the tufas in a large overhang.
The route is very difficult even on AF climb (7b +). NIKÉ was bolted over the period of three years, because it could have been done only in winter months due to its sunny oriented wall. We spent six days in the overhang to find the ideal direction. Kind off a challenge. Top steel rivets with the required 316L certification are used in the way. For the better comfort of climbers, here, as with most of our trips, we used carabiner stands.
Over the 12 years since Jan Kareš is returning to Sardinia, he and his team had bolted nearly 370 routes in this Mediterranean paradise. Without any grants. Most of the material is paid by him or with the help of a team and friends. He knew from the first visit that this place offered much more than it had been up to now, and that the potential was enormous. Best place for climbers in Sardinia around the small mountain town of Baunei. Now his dream is becoming a reality. And thanks to him, this place is being more and more recognized within the climbing community. After all, there were about 50 Czech climbers here last Christmas.
Jan Kareš, Jan Hrnčíř 12/2017 , 12/2018, Niké was the Goddess of speed, strength and victory. Fully bolted multipitch route. 170 m 8b/b+(7b+ obligatory) RP ascent is awaited. You will need notable endurance for 160 m of high enjoyable climbing, including 120m on tufas. 1st pitch 25 m, 11 quickdraws 7b; 2nd pitch 20 m, 11 quickdraws 7b; 3rd pitch 15 m, 8 quickdraws 8a+/b; 4th pitch 25 m, 11 quickdraws 8a; 5th pitch 30 m, 18 quickdraws 8b/b+; 6th pitch 20 m, 10 quickdraws 7b; 7th pitch 15 m, 7 quickdraws 7a; 8th pitch 40 m, 15 quickdraws 7c+ zroj:www.27crags.com
But NIKÉ was a true challenge. As Karešák says: “Only someone much better than me have to climb it. I set the difficulty of lengths base on experience. I had dreamed of finishing this route for a long time, but I had great respect for it. After all, this mountain is the best on the whole island for me. To find the direction in the center of the cave, almost every climber who was there or had seen it from Pedra Longa′s parking lot had to dream of it. I was struggling a lot to do some steps, the fatigue was enormous, but all steps are definitely manageable.”
The first two lengths lead through great 3D stalactites in difficulty 7b. The third length of difficulty 8a+/b is climbed over the stalactites and holes. It requires truly great endurance and strength. The fourth length is 25 meters to the left in difficulty 8a. The fifth and longest length is very enduringly demanding, leading through the ceiling of the cave to the right by stalactites and holes. The rewards are stalactites of various shapes. The sixth length is a technical twenty-meter traverse heading sharply to the left across smooth stalactites. All this leads only a meter above the overhang. As you progress, you enjoy beautiful steps, deep insights, views of the dominant tower of Pedra Longa and the surrounding valley. After you are done enjoying these magnificent views, you will come across a stand in a small egg-shaped cave, where the wind is pleasant for most of the year. From here it is possible to use the last escape route for descender with 2x 80-meter rope. After the traverse of next length, there is no other way than to climb up. From here the road is connected to the seventh length to our older route Boreas (7a +) and the last eighth for 7c + you get to the top of Punta Girardili mountain.
Not only for NIKE, but also for our other routes we pride ourselves on safety and, at for the request of locals, the rivets are closer than we were used to bolt. On this route, however, we recommend that you bring a jumar as Niké is a very overhanging route.
NIKE is beautiful and demanding and we look forward to your climbing. Please share with us your photos and experiences from this line. Because this is our dream come true, we announce a competition. The first one to climb over RP or OS will get a gift from @JanKaresClimbingTeam :)
Topo cesty další sektory na Sardinii
